Sunday 1st September

The beard has come off. My travelling fluff, 3 weeks worth became a) so itchy and b) so embarrassingly pathetic, that I bought some razors and did some topiary on my face. The result is now a very continental moustache/goatee ensemble. My friends at home have said I look like a certain Austrian dictator. If we're throwing dictators into the mix then it's more of Stalin so get it right - know your dictators.... But anyway I see a young Tom Selleck or The Count of Monte Christo. That said if you cannot grow ridiculous facial hair whilst on a bike tour, then when can you. 

So armed with disarming frontal fluff I was ready this morning to tackle Austria. Our twosome of me and kiwi copper Scott had now become a threesome with profolactic fan Chris. So a policeman, a German and a Tom Selleck lookalike: we'd make a good village people tribute act...

Breakfast eaten: banana and honey sandwiches, and we mosied out of camp. Headed back into Linz. It has a very Italian inspired open square with the most impressively ornate statue in the centre. It was a Sunday so all is closed... I'm told on Sundays in this part of the world you can get arrested for doing the hoovering as this is a day of rest. I saw this on a programme before I left.

After cruising up the street we decided there wasn't much to see and headed back over the main bridge and east along the Danube.

It was pretty fun riding as a three. This was the most human contact id had in weeks and I enjoyed it. Scott and I led the way, Chris was more interested in keeping a leisurely Sunday tempo so we slowed to his pace. Perhaps this would be a slower day after all.

Chris Koch is funny guy. He's 29 and took a break from his job as a primary teacher. He taught music so would often break into song. My favourite are his show tunes. His laugh was also pretty manic and we seemed to click nicely. It was good to find somehow with a strangely warped sense of humour. He was also prone to making sudden bird calls from down the road.

I got a text from my mother today. Not the usual words of encouragement and news on her cats. Apparently their near neighbours and parents of my old friends have been reading this...and so has their parents and then their cousins who happen to live in Linz. You have a place to stay for the night, call Julie on 0034.... Damn, too late. We were already 40km away. It would've been lovely, I left a message with Julie and she text back. Thanks again Julie, maybe next time! Here is your "shout-out" as promised :)

Chris was used to only 40km a day and we were already outside of his comfort zone. He was also a vegetarian and ate muesli and soya milk for lunch. Not quite the energy dense food I've been gorging on: some sausage, a couple of ice creams and a snickers. 

From Linz the route remained flat and true. I would like to recount some memorable sights but I can't remember any. Just general steep tree covered valleys with a relatively calm river running through it. Small picturesque towns intersperse the route.

Then the rain came down. I'd been caught out many times before. I'd tried to bear it with just a tee-shirt and I knew my shoes would be toast. We soldiered on for 28km to our next town, taking turns on the front and then sitting on the wheel to rest. Good old Chris didn't complain in his hi-viz jacket and 80s ski instructor glasses. I was wet through again and when we reached the next town it was time to reassess, make a plan and have a beer. We sat, 3 wet desperate looking men propping up the bar and staring vacantly ahead. One point I'd noticed about Austria despite their embrace of universal wifi hotspots they still smoke in pubs! C'man Austria that's so 2002.

With our nerves slightly numbed by the alcohol, we left and continued along looking for a place to camp as night was falling. Being 1st September the days do seem to be getting shorter. So lucky it was that we chanced upon perhaps the most idyllic wild camping spot. Amongst some trees on the river bank with a beachy inlet next to us we watched the sun go down as the tents went up. 2 in a row and Scott's hammock tent. This boy has ALL the kit. So we ate - budget paella again. Chatted and enjoyed ourselves. Nice way to finish the day...

So tomorrow, on the track towards Vienna. Maybe a bit of culture? Or maybe just some beers and wait for the Spanish Armada to arrive..

Ciao,

Ben x