The long and winding roads - Friday 27th September

I've arrived in Sofia, my home for at least tonight. It's a fairly small capital city but the highway leading into it is predictably crowded and polluted. I was advised to buy a face mask to tackle the smog and I'm beginning to think this was a good idea...

Since my last post, I gather I left it on a bit of a cliff-hanger. Like a thrilling episode of Lost eh?! Or not...

I did manage to find a safe place to throw up my tent thankfully, in an apple orchard by the roadside. It sounds more idyllic than it was. I was woken by the morning agricultural traffic chugging past. This did mean I was up by 7 and on the road by 7.30. Loads of time to get to Pirot, the next big town 70km away. I was taking the only thoroughfare, over a mountain pass which was a constant ascent followed by descent. I've become used to this now so it felt easier than befor but it's still a struggle to get the legs warmed up. For the first hour I think they thought they were still in the tent and had been rudely awoken like a disgruntled teenager.

I stopped for breakfast in a tiny town which was waking at around 9am. All the locals, with an average age of 70, were congregating outside the only shop. People would roll up on a bicycle, exchange greetings, seemingly say something funny which got laughs out of the chaps and rolled off again. I sat myself down on the bench next to them to pour myself some muesli. The whole village seemed to walk by all greeting me with good morning which was nice. One guy in a home-knit number arrived with a 3 litre bottle of home brew. It got a big cheer and it was offered round to everyone. Even for me this was early to start drinking.

James Dean, were he to live in a Serbian retirement village.

 

It was a hot early afternoon so I was relieved when I arrived in Pirot and found a cafe. I ate a pizza. With meat on it.. This vegetarian train has somewhat derailed now. Once it had cooled I set off again out of town towards my final Serbian destination, Dimotrovgrad, where I'd find a place to sleep. The only road was a highway but I resolutely held my own despite the horn blasts and lorries buffeting me in their wake. It was still oppressively muggy so I stripped off and kept the hi-viz.

Auditioning for "Stomp" in the West End. I did seem to get more honks with this look though. Not sure whether out of respect or pity.

It was getting dark so I looked for a place to camp. I've realised now that I am looking for the same criteria in a secluded plot of grass as the local dogs so it was useless. Dogs everywhere. And I think word's got around about the other night... I'm a sitting target out here.

In the end I found a cheap hotel so I stayed there, cooked and passed out. 

Woke to drizzle but soon made the border. Back into the EU again and got the usual questions from the stern border guards. I removed my helmet but still looked nothing like my passport photo. 

My first sign of Istanbul.. How very exciting. Should be there in 5 days or so.

So only 57km to Sofia. This was again on the highway so I just pedalled off. It was pretty uneventful but the scenery was quite impressive. My legs did hurt quite a lot on this stretch so it's welcoming to find a relaxing hostel. Dinner AND breakfast included. Jackpot!