I had always set aside a week in Istanbul as a chance to recharge my batteries, both mentally and physically and plan my second half of the journey to India. In regards to the first part I can certainly say it's mission completed. The batteries have been throroughly connected to the mains supply and reinjected with 100% weapons-grade R&R. This is obviously relative as Istanbul is the 5th biggest tourist destination in the world and the second most populous city (I know, I was shocked too, but all hail the fountain of wiki-knowledge). A week ago, I commented on the delight and wonder of being woken up in a foreign land to the wailing call to prayer. Well after 3 nights on the bounce of being woken up at 5 this soon wore off and I was kindly given a pair of ear plugs. Apparently this was like a pin drop to the bellowous call of my own snoring which forced a couple of room mates to move out, not before smashing with a walking stick during the night. In my defence I did warn them.
The closest I could get to the Blue Mosque. Not respectfully dressed they said.
Another thing to note about Istanbul is the traffic and general din. Having lived here for a week I'm amazed I survived the cycle in to the city. Ignorance is bliss in my book so now the prospect of vacating the sprawling metropolis on Monday 14th is pretty daunting. Mark Beaumont, he of world record round the world cycling fame and inspiration for this trip commented in his book, "The Man who cycled the World", that exiting Istanbul was among the most terrifying thing he had to do. And he crossed the Australian Outback!
Istanbul though is an incredible city, as everyone knows spanning two continental plates between Europe and Aisa. The history, dating back to the Byzantine period makes it definitely the oldest place I've.visited. I thought the 13th century church in Little Marlow was impressive until I saw the Hagia Sophia dating back to 546AD! There is even Viking rune graffiti on one of the pillars. Now before anyone corrects me on my historical innacurary, I should say, I don't care.
A highlight has been standing on the Galata Bridge at sunrise looking out across the Golden Horn and the Old City as it awakes. The fishermen finding a place on the bridge to dangle their lines in the water below. It is mating time for the anchovy population who flood up up the Bosphorous and other river whose name escapes me, so even amateurs are trying their luck with just bread as bait. I fancied a pop myself but wasn't able to hire one and didn't fancy purchasing and carrying a 12ft rod on the back of my bike. I also had poor success on a previous tour in France when trying to fish so just watched/annoyed the pros. Apparently fish don't like raw potato?! Who knew eh?
Wonky fisherman
I've also had a chance to catch up with some old (in a relative cycle touring sense) friends. Geo and Benjamin, my French amis who I lost on the way in, had found free accomodation in a friend's flat while I was paying for a room in a hostel (Neverland hostel), which I should add is very comfortable and relaxing if you are plan a stay you can't go wrong with this. Brekkie is spot on and the guests, some fleeting and some more permanent like myself are very cool. So while I was haemorrhaging funds, my pals were partying hard and experiencing the night life. I joined them for a couple of nights and reacquainted myself with the hangover. They also got a tattoo to remember their trip, it's called a Cat 4 tattoo and it's known in the cycling world, look it up if you don't know. I was very tempted myself but they were at the end of theirs and I was only half way through mine. Maybe in India where I hear you can paint your whole body like the Cistene Chapel for 20 Rupees. But sanitation is not the best. Maybe I'll stick to Henna.
Not actual leg but looks like this.
So my time in Istanbul wasn't all R&R, there was also a giant capital S thrown in there. STRESS. Now, until now I've left out any of the logistic, bureaucratic and essentially boring elements of cross-country cycling and that's obtaining visas. I needed a visa for Turkey (which I paid for on entry), Iran (which I applied for before I left), Pakistan (I didn't have) and India (successfully acquired through the consulate).
For Iran I used a company called www.IranianVisa.com after a recommendation from the lonely Planet guide. Due to diplomatic breakdown between Iran and the UK, you had to apply through an agency who contacted the iranian Ministry of Foreign Affairs on your behalf and then supplied a confirmation number if successful, which you take to the Embassy in Istanbul with little fuss. Easy-Peasy I thought. So after two days on the road I got an email saying I was rejected by the Ministry (probably on the grounds of being British), I was pretty stuck. I called, emailed and cajoled the agency but no response. These guys are scammers in my opinion so stay clear. My next option was to reapply as I couldn't get a visa without the confirmation code. I got talking to an Iranian guy in my hostel who said he knew someone who could write me an invitation letter and contact the Ministry for the price of 15USD. So this is where I am currently, this is in process and I still leave on Monday with the view to picking up my visa from Ankara. It's a bit of a risk but one which I am confident will pay off.
As for Pakistan, due to the unease in the region at the moment I took the decision before I left to cross it by train. Now to do this I need a transit visa costing £100, and which is notoriously difficult to get. Either that or cycle through with a police escort and get forced to sleep in prison blocks and police stations the whole way. I kid you not.
So with all things going well I shall pick up my visa from Ankara next week, cross Turkey in around 18-20 days through Anatolia and reach the Iranian border by early November. I will then have a maximum of 30 days to cross Iran, heading to the south coast at Bander Abbas, where I plan to board a Dhow boat across the Persian Gulf to Dubai and from there scour the wharf for a ship that will take me to Mumbai.
This next part then will be around 5,000km of cycling across the mountains and in the winter so it's going to be a challenge but one which im excited about. The real journey starts here!!!
So I hope you can join me for the next part in reaching India by Christmas Day.
Cheers,
Ben
P.s. A quick bit of births, deaths and marriages... I completely forgot to wish Wella Francis a happy birthday on 5th so here you are Wella! And congrats to Ant and Roz on their wedding day last Saturday. Sorry I couldn't be there..
LATERSSSSSSSSSS XXXXX
S-s-selfie. Check the beard yoooo
No comments:
Post a Comment