Sunday 14th October - How to survive in Istanbul

So my friend Lauren from home has been over to visit me this weekend in Istanbul. Pretty crazy, it took her 4 hours to fly. It took me nearly 2 months... That's just ridiculous. Anyway, I had much more leg room.

We've had a good time. Having spent over a week here now I feel pretty familiar with the place. I know all the major landmarks in the old town, the little back alleys and hidden gems over in the Beyoglu district where we are staying, and I know enough to put together a more than reasonable tour. Free of charge and at least 70% factually accurate. 

Inside the blue mosque. Lauren preparing to go into surgery. I had to laugh as she was the only person in there in this. I thought she looked like the lady from the Scottish Widows advert. 

Istanbul on a weekend is usually an absolute scrum. In fact on any day it's a scrum. You need to put your head down, ignore the people trying to flog you carpets and avoid the traffic and motorbikes driving through busy crowds. It is quite funny, I have realised that in general Turkish people are rarely taller than 6 foot. Apologies if that offends any Turkish people, but it does mean that I tower above everyone when I wander through the crowds. It gives you a good perspective on just how busy and chaotic everything is. Walking through the subway, it's an attack of the senses, all men shouting, toys making noises, music blaring from 20 different radios all conflicting with each other. It's not much better in the bazaars. Everyone who walks past a market stall is a potential customer and you are harried and sweet-talked into coming in. You just need to take the free bits of food they're offering, say no not for me after all thanks and walk off. By midday we'd sampled every type of Turkish delight, nougat, cheese, dried fruit, the lot. A cheap way to fill yourself up for sure.

Grand bazaar and spice market.

Cracking spread for less than a tenner. The white foamy solution on the right is Ayran, a yoghurt drink. Home-made no less. You could taste the udder.

One for the cat lovers. Everywhere you look there's one. Or 5. In every shop window, sat on every rug or cushion. They must love it here.

I was half expecting this to be quite an alcohol fuelled weekend, and I'm pleased it hasn't been if I'm honest. It's given us to time to catch up, and more opportunity to eat some truly excellent food. As I said previously, it's fishing season over here and you can pick up some excellent freshly caught grilled mackerel in a bun and deep fried anchovies for under a fiver. This was awesome, but the waiter did try to shaft us on the bill. That is the one thing about Istanbul, you always feel you are being ripped off. 9 times out of 10 it's probably true so you have to be wise to their tricks.

I think Lauren liked the place. It's certainly vibrant and full of energy. I really have a soft spot for the place. It's a mad mixture of old world charm and commerce with all the mod cons of a new cosmopolitan metropolis. We did witness a bit of the political tension that had been so prevalent in the news before I got here. Most nights there is some sort of police presence on the main shopping street, Isiklar. They're not your run of the mill bobby either, usually mean looking heavies wearing gas masks and baring sub machine guns. This is a bit unnerving while you are trying to do some shopping. Anyway, while we were grabbing some food one of the usually peaceful demonstrations started to get a bit more vocal and the crowd began chanting and punching their fists in the air. I'd watched on the tele the scenes in Taksim Square and I felt this could kick off. So before it got any worse, we did a runner as we didn't want to be stuck amongst all that. As an onlooker, the city seems to be at an uneasy Mexican standoff, police and protesters waiting for eachother to make the first move. All I can see is the government will crush any popular revolt any way they can.

Taksim square.

So this is nearly my last night in Istanbul. Lauren leaves tomorrow and I have to prep everything for the big push east. I got to saddle up them donkeys and visit the promised land. The folks sent out a big bag of winter clothes and a new sleeping bag so I'm sorted now I think. I also purchased a front Tubus pannier rack and some Ortlieb panniers to even up the weight distribution on my bike. This will help when climbing I'm told. Sadly what won't help is the innumerable chicken doners I've eaten in the last 8 days. Jeeeez, I'm going to struggle...

I'll send a little blog post before I leave but until then I need some kip. 

Lastly just a quick one, I just wanted to thank those who've donated recently to my JUSTGIVING sponsorship page. I don't want people to forget why I'm doing this amongst all the waffle on here. I have some MS Trust t shirts that I'm going to give an airing on here soon. Those who would like to add to my sponsorship can do so through this blog... Or at www.justgiving.com/ben-smith28. Please spare a few quid!

Right Cheerio, thanks, Ben x