I am alive. And I am well. Very well in fact. Surprisingly well considering. It's been nearly a month since I lasted posted news so firstly apologies, but blame the Iranian authorities who have blocked my blog. They know the power I have over the Home Counties..
I wanted to get some housekeeping out of the way early this time. I call it 'housekeeping', but that's rather denigrating. I just wanted to thank everyone who has supported me, donated to my cause, and wished me well. I can't tell you how amazing it is to finally log on to the internet and read kind messages, often from complete strangers, offering me words of support and motivation. It's a real boost. But most of all to everyone who has sponsored me. I am some way off my target, but I guess every little counts. If you can spread the word for this last push then I will be hugely grateful!
So...Iran.
Well, lets start with the question on everyone's lips... Did you broker the historic deal between the West and Iran?
I couldn't possibly say. But put it this way, I arrive in the country on 17th November and within a week, new diplomatic breakthroughs have been reached. You're welcome.
To touch on this very briefly, it has been amazing to be here as this momentous change has been happening. I heard news of it from a group of men who couldn't contain their happiness. Iranian people follow world politics closely and always want to discuss them with you and now there is a real sense of optimism. The sanctions that have crippled the economy can be lifted and people can live normally again. One thing most noticeable is the ban on car parts. This has led to Iran having to manufacture all its own cars. They are all the same, each model in one colour and everyone drives them. They are also falling apart, meaning every other shop is a mechanics. I saw my first truck load of Alfa Romeos driving past the other day... Perhaps these are the first signs.
So Politics - tick.
Now, my journey. There's a lot to cover and I won't do it justice in one post. I also can't post pictures so I will save the stories for when I leave Iran as I have some great snaps to upload.
But I arrived as I said on 17th November. My visa was granted for 30 days so it's been tight. Not much time to really stop and find out about the place, which is a shame because Iran is so rich in history and culture. What I have discovered has been eye-opening. The people, famed for their hospitality, have surpassed anything I have experienced so far. If you took up every offer to stay in people's homes, you would never get anywhere. They also love tourists and people from England and are so interested to hear what the UK is like. Green and rainy I say. They laugh as they look out across the sun scorched desert.
The other big difference is the language and cultures. By the end of Turkey I could have a decent conversation. GCSE level I'd say. A scraped pass but still. Upon arriving in Iran I immediately felt like I was out of my depth. The alphabet is different and for past 3 weeks has been impenetrable, the language, and also the cultures and customs. I can now just about read shop signs thanks to some slapdash schooling, which is lucky as every shop looks the same.
In regards to cultures and customs, obviously Iran has been an Islamic Republic since the 1979 Revolution and the toppling of the American-friendly Shah dynasty. So Islamic law prevails. Women must wear headscarves, men must cover legs fully. This is difficult for a cyclist and when in the country I can wear my lycra. But in cities, shorts are forbidden. I found this out the hard way when in Tehran.. it was hot, so the shorts were on. Out and about I noticed people staring at my legs. Hmmm, I thought, must be admiring my newly found cyclist's definition. When they approached me gesturing at my legs again I responded saying "Nooo, I'm not cold! In England...blah blah blah". A huddle amassed, nothing new, so I carried on my way. Things got heated on the metro when a man verbally assaulted me. I think. It wasn't until 4 hours later that I was reminded of the laws and I ran home avoiding all eye contact. Another custom which I have only just found out is the 'thumbs up' sign. My go-to pose in most photos, and responses to greetings. Well, it turns out that I had been telling everyone that I wanted to have sex with them. Friendly, but a bit too friendly...
Iran is a beautiful country. HUGE. and wild. The north is mountainous but thankfully the roads hug the valleys for the most part. The south is desert. Open plains of nothing for miles and miles. It makes for impressive cycling and after a few days of pedaling with a blank horizon your mind goes a bit loopy. I have taken to naming things from A-Z. I have done cars, fruit and veg and will soon be doing early 90s football players.
It has also heated up some what. The first week in the north was unbearably cold. I had pretty much had enough. It snowed, the winds blew and I did question why the F*** am I doing this??! But thankfully, after Tehran the mercury began to rise gradually, and the hats and gloves remained happily in my bag. I have even got a nicely British burnt face. Good old Blighty!
And as for me. I am fine! My clicking knee still clicks but doesnt hurt. My body feels strong. I've lost a bit of weight from eating nothing but beans and pasta mixes. Not far off my usual diet actually. I have been averaging about 120km a day and I am now up to 7,600km. I have pretty bad saddle sores plus some other nasty side effects of sitting on a leather saddle for months on end but that's not surprising.
So where am I? How long left? And when can I finally have a beer?
Get the map out... I'm in Shiraz (no wine anywhere) and only 600km left. I will board a ship from Bandar Lengeh to Dubai on 17th December. I will then fly out to India on 21st in time for Christmas bhajis. Pakistan was a no-go in the end and quite frankly, Christmas alone in my tent didn't bear thinking about...I'm excited to be nearly finished and the feeling of satisfaction grows more every day.
Anyone though who hasn't sponsored and would like to, please do so! Christmas cheer and all that..
And on that note, deck the halls, and crack out the Baileys - all that's left to say is Christmas greetings to one and all! Have a mince pie for me and see you in the new year.
Until Dubai... BIGLADONABIKE. :)
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