Sofia, reminds me of a girl I once knew - Sunday 29th September

My stays in cities were beginning to follow a formula. Find a hostel with breakfast included, friendly guests and decent facilities. I stayed in Sofia in a hostel called Hostel Mostel. Not sure who came up with the name. Perhaps a 6 year old. But it was comfortable. I spoke to a few of the guests. Again, I tried to stay clear of the ubiquitous Australian tourists, and I seem to favour more stranger looking folk. Ones who have some intrigue about them. Such as the 50 year old chap sat in the corner. It turns out he's from Iran so I grilled him on tips and information about his country plus he gave me some contacts to follow up with.

A cool concrete monolith.

There was a bar crawl as standard, which I tagged along with as it's the best way to familiarise yourself with the city. It turned out that I was far from familiar with the place as I spent about an hour trying to get home at 4 in the morning. Thankfully there were plentiful refreshment stops on my aimless route. 

Inevitably with 4 hours sleep my plan to leave Sofia the next day didn't happen. I instead headed off into the city with a map, a packed lunch and a throbbing headache. I'd always had an interest in Sofia and it was on my list (imaginary) of city breaks. Mainly because I knew the beers were cheap. I would describe the place as a mix of imposing but now strangely beautiful communist architecture, Ottoman mosques and European churches. There was a particularly cool bohemian place called the NDK, the National design centre where I found a shop that sold items made from recycled rubbish.

Some suitably communist themed statues. They love it here, as do I.

I sat on a low wall to eat my lunch and watch the world go by. Just as I tucked in a homeless man who was heckling everyone plonked himself next to me and spoke at me for a bit. Everyone else was looking at me and him with concern but I didn't care as I didn't understand him. He wanted some cheese so I tore off half a loaf, cut him some tomato and cheese and made a sandwich. We sat together enjoying our lunch in a very surreal way. The odd couple. I'm not sure who looked more dishevelled to tell you the truth. 

Lunch date.

So after a wild evening of sat watching football and eating Bulgarian bourbons I went to bed. After leaving the next morning I realised I'd forgotten my wallet so had to turn back after 15km. Finally on the road properly, it was pretty hilly, but long gradual climbs for the first 50km out of the city. It was again on the main E-80 highway out of town so I was stuck on then hard shoulder. This continued for the rest of the day, a total of 150km and eventually arrived at a pit stop just outside of Plovdiv. It was a pretty filthy diner where I had a burger and parked my tent up just round the back in a field. I could hear dogs barking everywhere and to be honest, the other night's run in had affected me and I was on edge. You never know if the dogs are in a garden or roaming free. I went to bed reading my army survival guide and it taught me some useful things about staying calm in a situation and generally dealing with stress. I'm going to need it I think for the rest of the journey.

Picturesque eh? Is that a Nobby or a Stobby?..

Sun going down behind me. The hazy sunsets are starting to look much more Eastern. I'm definitely moving out of Europe. I only realised yesterday I've changed time zones too.

So I'm up to 3,800km and only a few days from Istanbul. My plan is to stay there for a week or so to sort out my last visas. It's a massive place so I'm sure I won't be short of things to do.

Righto, laters 

The long and winding roads - Friday 27th September

I've arrived in Sofia, my home for at least tonight. It's a fairly small capital city but the highway leading into it is predictably crowded and polluted. I was advised to buy a face mask to tackle the smog and I'm beginning to think this was a good idea...

Since my last post, I gather I left it on a bit of a cliff-hanger. Like a thrilling episode of Lost eh?! Or not...

I did manage to find a safe place to throw up my tent thankfully, in an apple orchard by the roadside. It sounds more idyllic than it was. I was woken by the morning agricultural traffic chugging past. This did mean I was up by 7 and on the road by 7.30. Loads of time to get to Pirot, the next big town 70km away. I was taking the only thoroughfare, over a mountain pass which was a constant ascent followed by descent. I've become used to this now so it felt easier than befor but it's still a struggle to get the legs warmed up. For the first hour I think they thought they were still in the tent and had been rudely awoken like a disgruntled teenager.

I stopped for breakfast in a tiny town which was waking at around 9am. All the locals, with an average age of 70, were congregating outside the only shop. People would roll up on a bicycle, exchange greetings, seemingly say something funny which got laughs out of the chaps and rolled off again. I sat myself down on the bench next to them to pour myself some muesli. The whole village seemed to walk by all greeting me with good morning which was nice. One guy in a home-knit number arrived with a 3 litre bottle of home brew. It got a big cheer and it was offered round to everyone. Even for me this was early to start drinking.

James Dean, were he to live in a Serbian retirement village.

 

It was a hot early afternoon so I was relieved when I arrived in Pirot and found a cafe. I ate a pizza. With meat on it.. This vegetarian train has somewhat derailed now. Once it had cooled I set off again out of town towards my final Serbian destination, Dimotrovgrad, where I'd find a place to sleep. The only road was a highway but I resolutely held my own despite the horn blasts and lorries buffeting me in their wake. It was still oppressively muggy so I stripped off and kept the hi-viz.

Auditioning for "Stomp" in the West End. I did seem to get more honks with this look though. Not sure whether out of respect or pity.

It was getting dark so I looked for a place to camp. I've realised now that I am looking for the same criteria in a secluded plot of grass as the local dogs so it was useless. Dogs everywhere. And I think word's got around about the other night... I'm a sitting target out here.

In the end I found a cheap hotel so I stayed there, cooked and passed out. 

Woke to drizzle but soon made the border. Back into the EU again and got the usual questions from the stern border guards. I removed my helmet but still looked nothing like my passport photo. 

My first sign of Istanbul.. How very exciting. Should be there in 5 days or so.

So only 57km to Sofia. This was again on the highway so I just pedalled off. It was pretty uneventful but the scenery was quite impressive. My legs did hurt quite a lot on this stretch so it's welcoming to find a relaxing hostel. Dinner AND breakfast included. Jackpot!

Wednesday 25th September

It's been a mixed day. Pretty mental if I'm honest.

I stayed in a hotel last night. 25€ for bed and board. I treated myself. So I woke in anticipation of breakfast, and more so than usual this time. Was it going to be the muesli, or the eggs, or muesli THEN eggs and a pastry platter? The menu came, firstly it wasn't all you can eat. I had to choose one. One?! I said. Da. I saw eggs, poached. A banker on any day. But there at the far post left unmarked was the English Breakfast. Ooooh it had to be. The artery buster. With a coffee and orange juice. Out the drinks came with some bread, butter and marmalade. That's a nice touch, I thought, but I don't want to fill up on bread before the main event so I curtailed my urges, I sat on my hands, it would be worth it. After 20 minutes, still no hot eggs, sausage, the works. I went to investigate... Ummm excuse me, I ordered an English breakfast? Yes, you did, He said.. And I'm still waiting for it, I replied. You have an English Breakfast... Time stopped, I was short of breath, I think I need to sit down...This was my breakfast. I'd had a smorgasbord of continental delicacies and I chose the bread and butter. An open goal, and all,I had to do was tap it in. And spooned wide for 3 yards... This was a big lesson. Gutted.

So I left the hotel, and got back on the road. It was a hot one today even at 10 in the morning. The road between Negotin and Zajecar was 57km on the A road number 25. Not ideal but I had no other options. The legs were tired and it's always a struggle first thing so any immediate climbs hurt. On the open road it was just that, very open. Plains of arid lands stretched either side and the road wound down and up towards mountains in the distance. Oh what fun, one of those days of ascent and descent.

Route 66.

The heat sapped me and had to stop a few times but kept going until my next town for lunch. I climbed a total of 650m in that one stretch. I chilled in Zajecar and ate muesli on a bench. I was still quite full as I neglected to mention I'd raided the other tables for bread rolls at breakfast upon finding out my fate. So was sufficiently bloated on bread. People were collecting cookers around me and staring at the strange man eating muesli out of saucepan at 2 in the afternoon. I've learnt to smile and wave.

After lunch I headed towards my final stopping place, Knjazevac. A 100km day. It was lovely as it was cooler and the road was more quiet. I cruised and felt refuelled after my cereal hit. 

An old lady tends to her sheep. A common sight.

So I rolled in towards town as the sun ducked behind the mountains in the west. I saw what looked like a decent spot on a field near a factory. Tent up and started cooking. One dog didn't like me being there and came by barking but I was used to it and shouted him away and carried on. Dinner was cooked and I sat and enjoyed it by torch light. Just as I brought the spoon to my mouth i looked up and saw the reflection of 5 pairs of eyes from my torch. Then a snarl and the eyes ran at me... I think st this stage, my exact words were (and excuse my French), "oooooh fuuuuuUUUKC!". I immediately grabbed my helmet to beat them off and they stopped a few metres from me and scattered into the bushes. The adrenaline was pumping, real fight or flight stuff. I intended to fight, but my helmet would've done little and as for my trusty whistle.. I stood there shaking. And scanned the bushes with my torch. What do I do?! I must have been on their patch and they didn't like it. I could see them under the street lights barking at anything that came near and at me when I shone my torch and made for another approach but blew my whistle like a ridiculously ill prepared referee. 

Well I wasn't going to hang around to find out the final score. I packed everything up in record time, loaded the bike and scarpered still shaking... Yikes. That put the willies up me. I headed into town, bought a beer to calm my nerves and finished my dinner. I'm still drinking said beer so have no idea where I'm going to stay tonight. Perhaps further out of town into the country or maybe I can sweet talk a bed or sofa. 

Oh well, there you go. I'd been warned about Serbian dogs! The little buggers. 

Other than that, a fine day :) Bulgaria tomorrow. See you then 

Ben

Tuesday 24th September (actually today...)

I'm getting a deep connection now with my bike. Once it was a piece of fused metal which supported my weight and I was its surrogate father. Now as I look at it across the square resting on a wall it is like a husky dug into the snow waiting for its master. I am it's master, or should I say her master. She's been crowned Elizabeth III.

After about 10km Chris and I decided for about the 4th time that it was time for a split. On, off, on, off, this was getting like a bad relationship. This time the divorce papers had been served. I wanted to go quickly, him slow, so it made sense. We did it with no fuss by the side of the road, quick and clean like a bolt gun to the head. And off I went, leaving him in the distance. So I plugged myself into some back logged podcasts and headed for the Danube again. It was like getting a sports car on to quiet open roads, I felt I could really open up the engine and floor it again. My legs felt great so I cruised at around 30kmph plus. 

I soon reached the Danube again having taken a detour previously (wrong turn). The next 100 km would be hugging the river's edge around steep rock faces and through tunnels. This was the Danube Gorge and I was also passing through a National Park. On the other side of the river I could see Romania. I did want to go through Romania as I'm intrigued by the language; a romantic mix of French, Spanish and Slavic languages. Alas, as I had Dinar to spend I stayed Serbian side.

This part of the route was very different to anything I'd cycled along previously. The river was very wide at this point, it almost looked like a lake. The gorge was also impressive although I was slightly concerned when I saw the warning signs for falling rocks and ahead of me on the road lay strewn rocks. Bigger than my head. My helmet would do little to protect my swede should one of these bad boys take a liking to me.

There were also a fair few decent climbs with which to contend. I'd now learnt to look after the knee and just spin up in an easy gear but these were long climbs so the going was arduous. 

I stopped for lunch at the bottom of a ravine. Bread, a cheese called Sirt similar to feta, utenice (not sure how it's spelt but it's tomato, chilli and garlic - bought from a lady on the road side) and a couple of pears I'd pulled off a tree. I'd done 100km by lunch so was making good progress. Today was the day to break the 100 mile barrier for the first time on the trip.

Back on the road after lunch I passed over more hill tops and down through long pitch black tunnels charting a path through the rock. I was cycling blind and it was pretty hairy.

I stopped for a coffee and prepped myself for the last 50km. After a few kms I was faced with two routes. One which took me along my map route continuing with the Danube, or the other sign posted to my next major destination - Negotin, further in land. So I made an executive decision to wave goodbye to the Danube in unceremonious fashion. I'd followed it all the way for nearly 2000km and that was that. On to the next phase. South East to Turkey.

My chosen route passed through verdant pastures and rural land. It was as I said harvest time so the fields were busy. Not with modern machines but pitch forks and wagons. I'd now come accustomed to this slower pace of agricultural life. It was honest and hard working.

Next the road arrowed left. I was going without a map now so trusted my initial decision and followed it knowing full well that this was heading up a mountain. And so it did, for about 15km straight up. I ground the gears staying seated throughout. It was testing but once the top the views were worth it. Now with a tail wind I cruised across the plateau as the sun set behind me. 

This was completely unplanned but I was pleased I'd chosen the route. Across the plateau it really looked like the Serengeti with the sun illuminating the clouds with a pink hue. Before I decided to embark on my trip to India, I'd planned going through Africa, so this was a brief taste of what I thought it would have looked like. 

So as it was getting dark I rolled into Negotin, with 102 miles under my belt. I was content but knackered. It had been 3 days since Id had a wash so needed a shower badly and looked for a hostel. The closest thing was a hotel called Hotel Belgrade. More up market than I was used to but still only 25€ a night. Sod it, I deserve it. So showered, and having watched 20 minutes of a Serbian soap opera, I'm now sat at a restaurant. All they had on the menu were meats and salad and I wasn't having any greens tonight...Waiter, your finest processed meat please! And oh my, it tastes good.

So tomorrow, I should be in a Bulgaria or very near to it. But first a deep deep meat induced coma.

Sweet dreams

Tuesday 24th September

Thank The Lord for the EU and it's pollution control laws. I've seen some of the most stunning countryside tarnished by heavy industry and I was shocked yesterday.

It was an early start. Since the days are getting shorter, I've had to push my body clock forward a couple of hours. This is a good thing and before I was just too lazy to get up. So out of the tent at 6.30 to boil some water for coffee and eat muesli and pre-boiled eggs with Chris. I slept pretty poorly as my camp mat refuses to stay inflated. I end up on a burst balloon every morning. We did attempt to gaffer tape over where I suspect the leak to be coming from but surprise surprise this didn't work. It was also pretty cold and my sleeping bag isn't great.

We left the camp and bumped into an old Serbian man on the roadside who shouted something and flagged us down. He spoke good English and wanted to help us with anything we needed. We didn't really need help but it was fun to listen to him talk about his country. It's always the older people that are the most interesting. He gets 50€ a month from his state pension. This is why you see most elderly Serbs routing around bins - it can't be easy.

Our first stop was Stomerevo. This was once the capital of Serbia for about 5 years in the 1500's so felt important. I used a cafe and it's facilities however said facilities had no utility paper so embarrassingly had to ask the waitress. This was 10 minutes after having entered the loo. You get the picture here...not my proudest moment.

Out and through hills of small villages we passed by the first giant factory of the day. This area is known as the steel heartland of Serbia and I could see why. There were slag heaps taller than the smoke stacks. We travelled further and further and passed two 50 year old woman cycling from Vienna to the Black Sea. Mum if you're reading this...;) 

On either side of the road there were lakes of rubbish with people leafing through looking for choice metals and plastics. The general smell was awful. We passed out towards the town of Kostolac. The small villages surrounding were really run down and it was the first proper poverty I'd seen. But as always everyone shouted 'Hello," and "what is your name?!". Right next to these shacks were two enormous coal plants pumping out black smoke. You'd also think that ok this supplies jobs for the local area but cycling on further we saw a small newly built condominium with signs written in Chinese. This was a Chinese power plant. We carried on, and couldn't believe it. Then again after 2km was an even bigger plant, this time with huge scars in the surface where they were mining the land. We climbed through he fence and stood on a precipice over the sunken field of monstrous machines and craters on a scale of which it was hard to take in. It felt like this is how the earth would look if aliens invaded and used our planet to mine for fuel. Pure carnage on a vast industrial scale. Absolutely mad, and truly eye-opening. 

So after such a sobering moment I thought I should teach Chris the game '20 questions'. We cycled and played. I chose David Hasslehoff, who he didn't get. I thought this guy single-handedly brought down the Berlin Wall? I was in even more shock.

After around 80km Chris and I rolled along a peninsula towards a town called Ram on the banks of the Danube. It was the home to a 15th century Ottoman fortress so we had a look. We were the only ones there so were free to clamber the walls and generally be children. Chris adopted his usual tactic of pretending to be a Navy Seal. I wanted to do my 100km but was persuaded that to spend a night inside a fortress was a once in a lifetime opportunity and too big to pass up. So we set up camp, collected wood and cooked our meals shared between us. The rest of the night was spent chatting and I read to Chris from an app I downloaded : The US Army Survival Guide. We are now both familiar with effective camouflage techniques, enemy evasion and the following very useful information:

90% of black berries are edible

50% of red are edible

10% of white/orange and green are edible.

...or was that purple?... Ok don't quote me.

But I'll leave you with to ponder.

Dobre vice 

P.s. Just to check if anybody reads all this way down...HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO ANDY CASEY YOU CHAMP. Much love, taffy xx

Monday 23rd September

After last nights final farewell to Belgrade we woke late with just 5 hours sleep. I had a few things to do, first was breakfast and popped to the shop for bread, chocolate spread and banana plus some rations for the road. The others as usual and as all Germans seem to do, ate muesli. If you're looking for share options I would invest in German muesli, they can't make enough of the stuff to fulfil the domestic demand.

I got a text from kiwi Scott, our old friend from back in Austria. He'd burned through some kilometres and reached Belgrade in good time. So we met him to say hello. He looked well, and had bought a new jumper. We'd all shared stories of how we got here. It's funny to hear how everyone's experiences are different. He'd met a chap from Austria but no woman. I worry for the women in Belgrade.

I did notice in Belgrade that the women were perhaps some of the most beautiful I'd seen, even toppling the mighty Lithuania from the top of the tree. This is apparently because sadly due to the war there is more women than men and as such there's more competition between the women, hence they make more of an effort. I'm not sure I believe this as it was recounted 3rd hand to me from a person who heard it from a drunk Serbian man in a bar.

As a side note, which has no bearing or relevance, I was told by a woman that it was an honour for her to meet me?! Perhaps she'd read the Marlow Free Press, or she thought I was Ewan Macgregor.

Another great thing about Belgrade was the little fishing village just to the north west called Zemun. It's a shabby but charming neighbourhood where you'll find the best fish restaurants in town. There's also great markets to buy everything you need. We did a good shop and were given some free cheese by a friendly stall holder. As I said, nice lot these Serbians.

So after all this we were about done. Packed and ready to roll out of town. Once more we made our way through the busy streets. I have actually realised now that I am a poor map reader and got us lost a fair few times.

The road out of Belgrade was full with traffic, polluted and rose up for about 4km. This was not welcomed by my relaxed muscles and I could have done with a few more kms of flat beforehand. Alas, in the easiest gear I reached the top with views north and south of the Danube and surrounding valleys. I sat and sometimes lay waiting for Chris to arrive. He was travelling at a geologic speed today and wasn't to be rushed.

I've been waiting for Chris most of today. It's a shame we have completely different plans as he's a great guy and makes me laugh a lot. Some of the things he comes out with just makes me LOL. He's also a great duet partner and we were getting very convincing at performing duel roles in the Grease mega-mix. But tomorrow we'll have to go separately and I think for good this time. However I believe that when one door closes another opens. He did teach me one thing that has stayed with me and I've been thinking about it since having knee problems and deciding to slow my pace. It was the motto for a bicycle charity in Africa, "Moving slow, reaching far". I think that pretty much sums up cycle touring.

I did however beat my top speed on a descent from one of these climbs today, 69kmph. I would've broken the 70km barrier if I had more confidence in my brakes. 

So after only 50km of riding, my companion and I chose to find a camp spot before it was dark. It's pretty nice, just next to the river, crickets in the background, cats everywhere and a couple of stray dogs. These dogs bark like mad but once you walk up to them they run off. Stupid things.

So to bed, early start tomorrow. 6am and out of here ready to break the back of this journey. All I can think about now is October 5th: Istanbul.

Night, Ben

Facebook

So if you'd like to see pictures of my trip so far you can on my Facebook page. I have made it open to view so please feel free to have a browse.

Please ignore any other more incriminating snaps from past misdemeanours.

Why thank you 

Sunday 22nd September

Hello world! Sorry it's been so long since my last post. I've been travelling with a group of Germans and not wishing to again proliferate a national stereotype but tight scheduling has been key and no time has been allowed for idle social media updates. We had kilometres to eat and borders to cross.

So on that note, I've crossed 2 frontiers since last time. Over to Croatia and now outside of the warm embrace of the EU into Serbia. If I'm honest I'd only heard bad things about this county, be it the packs of wild dogs (of which there are many.. And we'll cover this later) or their objection to wild camping or simply my own preconceptions based on past conflicts in the region. So what a lovely surprise it has been that every person I have met has been the warmest, friendliest and most helpful I've encountered to date. They all speak great English and will go out of their way to point you in the direction or even walk you there when lost. One chap even invited us in for Schnapps. 

It's also harvest time over here. I think I mentioned before when travelling through Belgium that I could see these swollen fruits hanging tantalisingly from the trees but they weren't quite ready. Well... To say I've indulged on gods green kitchen is an understatement. I think most of my activities could be classified as scrimping and in extreme societies I could lose hand for my crimes but a couple of apples, pears, plums, peppers and pumpkins (alliteration not deliberate) did nobody any harm. We've had plum compote, roasted pumpkin, apples every day and all for the princely sum of a bad conscience. I'll go with that.

I say 'we' as I haven't been riding alone. Since the last post I met a tandem couple from Germany and rode with them for a couple of days, found German Chris pooling along again and 3 more Germans. I've been bathing in the sweet aural nectar of Eastern Bavaria and I'm soothed. Actually the language barrier has been a problem but I've picked up many useful words and phrases. They are all vegetarians so essentially eaten muesli for a week.

A real highlight was our stay in Novi Sad. We had foul weather for the days leading up to it with sodden feet but this town offered shelter and sanctuary. We serviced our own bikes in a bike kitchen, did some karaoke (in which I of course partook - and no it wasn't Seal's harmonic opus Kiss From a Rose). The fine fine people at The Novi Sad bike Kitchen even put us up for a night in their flat. Love to them forever amen...

Ive experienced snakes, bites, wasp stings, swollen knees, numb fingers and at times general malaise from cold and wet weather but spirits are again high. Today is my last day in Belgrade which again has been a treat. We've had a bit of partying, some R&R and filled up on supplies as now the real challenge lies ahead; Istanbul in 14 days. This will take me down along the Danube until the Romanian border where I will head south along the 'Iron Curtain Trail' towards Pirot and over the border to Bulgaria, Sofia and to Istanbul. I shall be mainly solo again and the terrain is mountainous. Autumn is also closing in fast so will experience harsher climates but I'm excited and ready for it.

Lastly, all I'd wish to say is thank you all for following. You'll be hearing more from me over the next week or so, so stay tuned. Also a huge thanks for the continued donations. It's a worthy cause and having spoken with MS Trust they're amazed by your generosity. This blog is being linked to their site so all can follow. I've also been asked to write a feature for an online cycling charity so I can spread the word. And finally finally, WELCOME any new Bucks Free Press readers. I understand I made the local rag (a life's ambition achieved) thanks to my friends Jon Mahood and Nick Bishop pulling a few strings. Cheers guys...

So with nothing left to say (although I'm sure I've missed something) I bid you farewell until next time. Wish me luck.

Ciao , Ben 

Friday 13th September

In writing this date I just realised its Friday 13th. I don't believe in all that stuff but lying here, alone in my tent by the river just south of Budapest, I suddenly feel a little more vulnerable. Stop it Ben...

So yes, those who know their geography will recognise that I've passed through the Hungarian capital spending 2 nights and experiencing the sights and unique flavours. I arrived Wednesday afternoon after a boggy entry from the north. We woke to our dear friend drizzle which turned to torrential rain. Not content with being drowned by the gutter waves from passing lorries, we turned to the cycle ways and tracks. One in particular, which turned out to be more of a furrowed field than thoroughfare caused no end of excitement. For a  few adrenalin fuelled seconds I felt like a mountain biker until I slid in the mud extinguishing any hubris I may have had. In hindsight, the thick 4x4 tracks should've been a major giveaway. 

Day 2 of my vegetarianism led me to a houmous house sat in the bad streets of buda. More of this and I could get used to this. At this stage I could easily do without meat for a long while despite the smell of goulash around most corners.

Due to general dampness I/we (Scott and I) chose the hostel-route. The thought of a radiator to dry clothes was very appealing. The problem with hostels is the people in them, namely Australians, talking about how much they miss veggiemite. No jokes, that is pretty much a verbatim conversation. We ended up on a pub crawl with the hostellers. Scott and I were wearing matching fleeces, so again, we stuck out like losers at a disco but we got stuck in. My general tiredness caught up with me so I bailed. I don't think i missed much and all I could think was that I was too old for this...

So woke and fled the hostel post haste. I needed some space and nobody likes having a lie-in in a hostel. My first stop on my self-guided bike tour was the szcherny bridge spanning the Danube. Bridge buffs amongst you will rightly remark that this stunning stone monument is a scaled up version of the equally impressive (ok, not equally) Marlow bridge that crosses the Thames. I took a picture of the plaque confirming this and I felt a warmth in my heart. A home from home in my little pilgrimage.

The other big note on my to do list was the scenery baths. I've always loved the idea of public bathhouses. This was a delight: 18 pools, indoor and out. Inside you'll find a variety of baths of differing temperatures with ornate red marble columns. I felt as though I was in Ancient Rome except I had nobody to strigil my back. I also treated myself to a massage: 15€ for 30 minutes as a middle aged woman, with hands like shovels, kneaded my back and legs. I felt thoroughly loosened and light headed as I left. It's a great place to hang out and definitely worth the visit, just be prepared for the general smell. Something like rotten skin, perhaps something to do with the fact most of the bodies bobbing about were pretty haggard and all wearing 80s baseball caps.

My home for tonight would be out of town on the Buda side. A converted tram station on top of a hill. It was a real pain to get to and my knee did not enjoy the long climb but when there the hostess welcomed me with a beer and I tucked into bread, tomatoes and avocado bought from the grand market hall in town. I didn't feel particularly sociable so had an early night. 

One massive annoyance right now apart from the ozzies, is that my inflatable camping mat has a slow puncture. This means that I wake up every morning lying on an airless mat on the cold hard floor. After nearly a week of hopelessly blowing up my mat I really need to fix it. I have some puncture repair kits and am a master bodger so am bound to find some hashed together solution.

Essentially today I cycled round Budapest looking for a map for the rest of the Danube and shoe covers to stop my feet getting wet. There's no greater dampener to  morale than wet feet so with few major cities until Istanbul I searched every cycle shop. Inevitably nobody stocked my size so it looks like ill be getting wet feet then... The bloke in the last shop told me that I shouldn't worry about wet feet because they'll dry. I felt emasculated...

I finally made it out town as it was almost getting dark. I had the urge to continue onwards but to be honest I was filled with trepidation. This was pretty my last sanctuary of civilisation until Istanbul. The next 2,000km were gonna be different and a test of character I'm sure. And now I'm back on my own again which is great but I'd gotten used to the company... Anyway, im made of stronger stuff and I'd gotten this far. Onward!!

Benjo was his namo

.....aaaand a few little snaps 

On the bridge in Budapest

This stirred my heart...

Lads and pints

WEAPONS!! Military compound on the way into Budapest. Soon after this we were shooed away by a man with a gun.

Morning after the night before. German chris and kiwi Scott pose alluring by our camp site the day before Budapest

Tuesday 10th September

I learnt an expensive lesson today. Always check the currency exchange before visiting a cash point. 

I rose from my paid for campsite last night, alone, but not lonely. It was good to get into my own routine; up, showered, bags packed, tent rolled up and bike loaded. Sat for breakfast: more honey, banana on bread and peacefully munched. I've had various songs in my head over the last few days which we've all been singing. As I said, we sing a lot. I like this as I would sing anyway but as a threesome we'd put Il Divo to shame. Beyond my usual repertoire of Seal's Kiss from a Rose (it's about cocaine addition if you didn't already know) I'd had The Cranberrie's Linger rolling around my head. A beautiful song but I couldn't remember the verses so I sat, covered in honey, listening to youtube, getting lost in the lyrics.

Out of town I followed a road back along the Danube and into Esztergom (known as the Rome of Hungary) and looked immediately for a cash point as Id left the ease of the Euro zone. I stood in front of the screen and tapped a few buttons which presented me with a list of denominations. I tried to imagine the English equivalent and worked out that I'd probably need the equivalent of around £100 so took a stab at the best placed number: 75,000 Hungarian Forints. I felt like Monopoly money. I visited the bakery next door and paid with my enormous note. The woman on the till looked at me unimpressed as I'd swanned in with a week's wages and tried to buy a croissant. I later sat down and worked out some basic exchange rates and realised that I'd withdrew £275 for 4 days in Hungary...sh1t. Looks like I'm going shopping in Hungary!

I spent the rest of the day carrying out small transactions as a travelling currency broker with American tourists and anyone who'd forgotten to convert Euros. I think after my usual commission I finished in pocket. 

I bumped into dear Christopher again not long after drinking a coffee in town. I wasn't sure if he was pleased to see me or was a good liar as I think we all enjoyed our time alone last night. Too much of a good thing is never healthy. But we recounted stories again, I told him I could write off the debt of a 3rd world country with the contents of my wallet and he laughed. A lot. Payback maybe for my poking fun at his swollen face. 

We rolled out of town back towards the path. Esztergom is like a shabby heart of a once prosperous empire. Beautifully rendered buildings crumble to reveal their brickwork and it reminds me a bit of how I'd imagine Havana to look. A city frozen in time. Things are not pain stakingly renovated like a national trust estate, but are just patched up and seem to breathe charm and character. 

I met a group of American roller skaters today. All 30 or so of them. A funny lot, from New York, New Jersey and beyond. Not what you expect to see whilst crossing the Danube on a ferry. 

Whilst on the other side of the Danube, Chris and I stopped with 3 Germans on a beach for lunch and I decided to become a vegetarian. Or should I say a pescatarean. It seems like I may have finally lost the plot but I'm gonna give it a go. I started my journey into meat free living with a lunch of muesli. I could get used get used to this no?

 As if by design, who were we to see along the route but our dear companion kiwi Scott. In the 12 hours we'd left him he'd picked up another woman, about whom I'm sure he's already written a song, and stayed in a strange Slovakian bedsit. We continued on together, brothers reunited.. One last gig together for the battle of the bands!!

We were only 40km from Budapest but we decided to find a place out of town to wild camp. Of course before this our French fancy had suggested une petite biere in a local bar. This became 3 and we chatted with an 80s heavy metal accompaniment from the juke box. 

Off to the spot for the night overlooking the river, we ate, Scott pulled out the banjo and unleashed his weapon of seduction. In truth, he writes his own songs and they are genuinely very good. He has a real talent. He is a tortured soul bless him and his heart bleeds into his songs. We'll find him a wife along this route somewhere...

Anyhoo, thanks for reading. Speak soon x

Ben

Monday 9th September

Ahoy! That is hello in Slovakian people.. I'm giving you a condensed/double package today as I missed yesterday...

Our Catalan chicas, Laura and Anna left us yesterday.. A sad day. We'd become a little family and you get very close within only a few days together. Perhaps being alone you look for stronger bonds with people around you. They were both lovely and their constant laughter was infectious. I also added pigeon Catalan to my repertoire of 'languages'.

So testosterone heavy, we left the camp and had a quick nose round Bratislava. Back on the trail out of town we got to see what life was like out of the capital. Almost half of the country's GDP is created in Bratislava so I wasn't expecting much. We had a huge headwind to contend with and the canal tow path was depressingly straight and unrelenting. We got back into our drafting formation and I relished putting the power down at the front. But with all this slow pace of late had my clicking knee didn't agree and was causing discomfort. 

We followed this canal all the way for 80km. It was the most boring stretch so far and I hit a couple of metaphorical walls. This man made water way was the result of late 80s scheme to generate hydro electric power for the surrounding area. This culminated in an enormous dam, a concrete example of soviet construction. The locals seemed to love it as they congregated to get a picture. I am a big fan of heavy industry as I think it has an inherent charm but this was just ridiculous. Their snack stop was also ridiculously cheap so with some loose change I stocked up the reserves.

So to bed and we awoke this morning to some glorious English rain. A persistent drizzle, just enough to dampen my sandwich.

We travelled along and I could sense we were all itching to get going at our own pace again. As much as I love chris's company, he does cycle like a grandma with a hip replacement and we have to hold back the whole time. This makes slow progress and I wanted to free the legs again as my mileage had ground to a halt. 

After lunch we took the decision to split. Scott stayed to eat something at a dubious rest stop and Chris found a camping spot by the river. I carried on through the rural landscape towards Hungary. For the first time in 8 days I was solo again, just as I had been from the beginning. It was liberating and I slapped one of my podcasts that had been back logging and cruised at a steady 27kmph for an hour and a half tucked right down onto my drop bars. This was what it was like the pedal free! Cracking stuff.

You can only be astounded by what Slovakian people can carry on their bikes. All the old fellas wear construction hard hats tied on with string and camouflage gear. I got an approving nod at my army jacket. I saw one guy carrying a lawnmower on his shoulders and a strimmer across the handlebars. 

And I had my first brush with the cool hand of the law today. I thought I would cross over the Hungarian border under the cover of darkness, partly because I  was loitering about the Slovakian side trying to find a good meal that wasn't a hamburger or hotdog, and partly because I always wanted to slip stealthily over the border like Andy Mcnabb. So as not to draw attention to myself I didn't have my light on and sure enough I got a good flash from the policeman's torch to pull over. Papers please... Gulp, I nervously handed over my passport. "You know it is an offence to cycle without a light Mr Thomas Smith". He made some phone calls and wrote me out a ticket to sign. I naturally tried to read it to make sure I wasn't signing a confession. He told me it was a warning notice although it could have been anything. Next time 100€ fine... Yes mr officer sir... So there goes my first bit of border trouble. Undoubtedly not my last either.

So to camp, to bed, sweet dreams

Ben 

Saturday 7th September

Daydream, I fell asleep amidst the flowers, for a couple of hours, on a beautiful day.. This was my day today. Our plan to get up and visit Bratislava amounted to nothing as the sun was shining and we had a long and leisurely breakfast together. Chris and Scott my travelling partners since Linz, and Laura and Anna, our female Catalan contingent sat together and ate honey on bread and boiled some tea. The girls had alreafy been in the town centre in the morning to pick up some bike boxes as they are leaving tomorrow to fly back to Spain.

This gave me some time to realise what day it was and realise what day it was... Well, my phone reminded me.. It was my mother's birthday. I gave her a quick call and it was nice to speak to her. She does though now like to tell me how dangerous everywhere is and my dad just says if its too dangerous come home.. Good old parents, always thinking about the positive side! I reassured them all was okay and ill call them again in a week. But mother dear, if you are reading this you will know I am alive and well.

So no plans for the town centre, maybe we will have a lazy one today. It turns out our once believed hole of a campsite is actually quite nice in the daylight. The armed police on the front gate seemed less threatening, the staff were warm and welcoming and the lake was still and placid. Being the weekend there was a big kayak and canoe competition on the water and was a perfect backdrop to lie and watch the world go by. We decided to swim across to the island in the middle. As always this only seemed a couple of strokes away but we found after 5 minutes it was further than we thought. It didn't help that this lack of feeling in my fingers meant swimming with my hands was pretty pointless. We made it however and watched the people mill about on the other side.

Dinner tonight was a communal effort which began as cooking the last of the pumpkin and finished with everybody making some form of dish, mainly carbohydrates, so we had a starchy medley of rice, pasta, bread and various vegetarian offerings. It's nice to cook and share meals together and certainly beats eating one meal out of your one pot.

Being a Saturday night we headed to the campsite bar. As I'd become accustomed to, beers were a button and crisps cost a corn flake. The musical accompaniment was strictly 80s - I heard everything from 99 luft ballons to club tropicana. Thankfully no stock Aiken and waterman or else I would've left. I don't know why they love 80s tripe over here but everyone sings along. I even spotted the not so convincing butch polizei on the gate cruising with Soft Cell on the police radio. I don't like to try and go after easy targets but it does seem that somebody pressed pause in 1988 and forgot to press play again. 

Anyway, we all had a blast, played some cards and Chris lost so will be making us breakfast in the morning. I forgot to mention dear Christopher was stung on his cheek by a bee yesterday and now looks like elephant man. This has provided me no end of amusement and I've been crying with laughter for the last couple of days...he's taken it well though bless him.

So to bed, a cracking day with some great people. Will be sad when the Spanish girls leave tomorrow.

Til then,

Ciao, ben x