So on that note, I've crossed 2 frontiers since last time. Over to Croatia and now outside of the warm embrace of the EU into Serbia. If I'm honest I'd only heard bad things about this county, be it the packs of wild dogs (of which there are many.. And we'll cover this later) or their objection to wild camping or simply my own preconceptions based on past conflicts in the region. So what a lovely surprise it has been that every person I have met has been the warmest, friendliest and most helpful I've encountered to date. They all speak great English and will go out of their way to point you in the direction or even walk you there when lost. One chap even invited us in for Schnapps.
It's also harvest time over here. I think I mentioned before when travelling through Belgium that I could see these swollen fruits hanging tantalisingly from the trees but they weren't quite ready. Well... To say I've indulged on gods green kitchen is an understatement. I think most of my activities could be classified as scrimping and in extreme societies I could lose hand for my crimes but a couple of apples, pears, plums, peppers and pumpkins (alliteration not deliberate) did nobody any harm. We've had plum compote, roasted pumpkin, apples every day and all for the princely sum of a bad conscience. I'll go with that.
I say 'we' as I haven't been riding alone. Since the last post I met a tandem couple from Germany and rode with them for a couple of days, found German Chris pooling along again and 3 more Germans. I've been bathing in the sweet aural nectar of Eastern Bavaria and I'm soothed. Actually the language barrier has been a problem but I've picked up many useful words and phrases. They are all vegetarians so essentially eaten muesli for a week.
A real highlight was our stay in Novi Sad. We had foul weather for the days leading up to it with sodden feet but this town offered shelter and sanctuary. We serviced our own bikes in a bike kitchen, did some karaoke (in which I of course partook - and no it wasn't Seal's harmonic opus Kiss From a Rose). The fine fine people at The Novi Sad bike Kitchen even put us up for a night in their flat. Love to them forever amen...
Ive experienced snakes, bites, wasp stings, swollen knees, numb fingers and at times general malaise from cold and wet weather but spirits are again high. Today is my last day in Belgrade which again has been a treat. We've had a bit of partying, some R&R and filled up on supplies as now the real challenge lies ahead; Istanbul in 14 days. This will take me down along the Danube until the Romanian border where I will head south along the 'Iron Curtain Trail' towards Pirot and over the border to Bulgaria, Sofia and to Istanbul. I shall be mainly solo again and the terrain is mountainous. Autumn is also closing in fast so will experience harsher climates but I'm excited and ready for it.
Lastly, all I'd wish to say is thank you all for following. You'll be hearing more from me over the next week or so, so stay tuned. Also a huge thanks for the continued donations. It's a worthy cause and having spoken with MS Trust they're amazed by your generosity. This blog is being linked to their site so all can follow. I've also been asked to write a feature for an online cycling charity so I can spread the word. And finally finally, WELCOME any new Bucks Free Press readers. I understand I made the local rag (a life's ambition achieved) thanks to my friends Jon Mahood and Nick Bishop pulling a few strings. Cheers guys...
So with nothing left to say (although I'm sure I've missed something) I bid you farewell until next time. Wish me luck.
Ciao , Ben
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