I'm getting a deep connection now with my bike. Once it was a piece of fused metal which supported my weight and I was its surrogate father. Now as I look at it across the square resting on a wall it is like a husky dug into the snow waiting for its master. I am it's master, or should I say her master. She's been crowned Elizabeth III.
After about 10km Chris and I decided for about the 4th time that it was time for a split. On, off, on, off, this was getting like a bad relationship. This time the divorce papers had been served. I wanted to go quickly, him slow, so it made sense. We did it with no fuss by the side of the road, quick and clean like a bolt gun to the head. And off I went, leaving him in the distance. So I plugged myself into some back logged podcasts and headed for the Danube again. It was like getting a sports car on to quiet open roads, I felt I could really open up the engine and floor it again. My legs felt great so I cruised at around 30kmph plus.
I soon reached the Danube again having taken a detour previously (wrong turn). The next 100 km would be hugging the river's edge around steep rock faces and through tunnels. This was the Danube Gorge and I was also passing through a National Park. On the other side of the river I could see Romania. I did want to go through Romania as I'm intrigued by the language; a romantic mix of French, Spanish and Slavic languages. Alas, as I had Dinar to spend I stayed Serbian side.
This part of the route was very different to anything I'd cycled along previously. The river was very wide at this point, it almost looked like a lake. The gorge was also impressive although I was slightly concerned when I saw the warning signs for falling rocks and ahead of me on the road lay strewn rocks. Bigger than my head. My helmet would do little to protect my swede should one of these bad boys take a liking to me.
There were also a fair few decent climbs with which to contend. I'd now learnt to look after the knee and just spin up in an easy gear but these were long climbs so the going was arduous.
I stopped for lunch at the bottom of a ravine. Bread, a cheese called Sirt similar to feta, utenice (not sure how it's spelt but it's tomato, chilli and garlic - bought from a lady on the road side) and a couple of pears I'd pulled off a tree. I'd done 100km by lunch so was making good progress. Today was the day to break the 100 mile barrier for the first time on the trip.
Back on the road after lunch I passed over more hill tops and down through long pitch black tunnels charting a path through the rock. I was cycling blind and it was pretty hairy.
I stopped for a coffee and prepped myself for the last 50km. After a few kms I was faced with two routes. One which took me along my map route continuing with the Danube, or the other sign posted to my next major destination - Negotin, further in land. So I made an executive decision to wave goodbye to the Danube in unceremonious fashion. I'd followed it all the way for nearly 2000km and that was that. On to the next phase. South East to Turkey.
My chosen route passed through verdant pastures and rural land. It was as I said harvest time so the fields were busy. Not with modern machines but pitch forks and wagons. I'd now come accustomed to this slower pace of agricultural life. It was honest and hard working.
Next the road arrowed left. I was going without a map now so trusted my initial decision and followed it knowing full well that this was heading up a mountain. And so it did, for about 15km straight up. I ground the gears staying seated throughout. It was testing but once the top the views were worth it. Now with a tail wind I cruised across the plateau as the sun set behind me.
This was completely unplanned but I was pleased I'd chosen the route. Across the plateau it really looked like the Serengeti with the sun illuminating the clouds with a pink hue. Before I decided to embark on my trip to India, I'd planned going through Africa, so this was a brief taste of what I thought it would have looked like.
So as it was getting dark I rolled into Negotin, with 102 miles under my belt. I was content but knackered. It had been 3 days since Id had a wash so needed a shower badly and looked for a hostel. The closest thing was a hotel called Hotel Belgrade. More up market than I was used to but still only 25€ a night. Sod it, I deserve it. So showered, and having watched 20 minutes of a Serbian soap opera, I'm now sat at a restaurant. All they had on the menu were meats and salad and I wasn't having any greens tonight...Waiter, your finest processed meat please! And oh my, it tastes good.
So tomorrow, I should be in a Bulgaria or very near to it. But first a deep deep meat induced coma.
Sweet dreams
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