Tuesday 3 September 2013



Saturday 30th August

Firstly, apologies I've been a bit slack these last few days. I think ever since Munich my mind has been elsewhere and very focused on what im doing rather than reflecting on what I have done. I guess the point of doing these is to stop and reflect and put things into perspective. But the fact I'm too busy to do it is a good thing..

I arrived into Passau late last night as the sun was setting down over the old town. It's always a nice time to arrive at your destination and you get to witness it in all it's glowing splendour. 

The camp site I chose was perfect, just on the side of one of the adjoining rivers. It was me and a couple of German guys with a kayak. I sat eating dinner, watching and looking and over-heard/my eyes were drawn towards/stared at two attractive Spanish girls. Sat next to them was a kiwi fella. I assumed one of their boyfriends. Good work I thought! 

I got speaking to this guy the next morning as we made garbled conversation with toothbrushes in our mouths. He was a traveller on a bike like me and had only bumped into this Hispanic lasses two nights back and decided to join them. Dirty dog I thought... He had spent the last 2 nights trying to seduce them with his banjo but their stoic resistance had been admirable. They were impervious to his rustic kiwi charms so he thought sod that I'm coming with you.. They also only covered a pedestrian 40km a day and he was getting frustrated. I could promise him 100km +, so just like that I'd found a cycling buddy and off we set off down the Danube to Linz. I did wonder how out of the 3 potential targets I'd ended up with the burly bloke but by this time it was too late. He was my companion for the foreseeable future.

He's a great bloke. Pretty straight up. 26 and was a copper back in Auckland. He did kind of speak in occasionally in that institutionalised manner only a policeman can but after 7 years I dont blame him. We discussed such interesting topics as Nazi death camps and progressive policing strategies. I struggled to contribute to either.

We soon skimmed across the smooth velvet cycle paths which hugged the river bank. This was my first taste of what can only be described as the maritime cycle super highway. The M1 of cycle paths but no Watford Gap services to look forward to.

By lunch we'd nailed 60km. He ordered a potato with some German filling. I copied as i couldn't understand the menu. It's quite embarrassing that a kiwi knows more German than I do. 

The riding was effortless and we talked pretty much the whole way. Better than the increasingly warped internal dialogue I'd been having. Put those demons away for a few days at least.

Linz was our harbour for the night. Another picturesque city with striking facades to all the buildings. If I'm honest that is the only discernible difference between Germany and Austria aside from the flag. They also have free wifi everywhere. It's like Buck Rogers out here..

We pulled up at another camp site (yes I'm aware this doesn't appear to be roughing it) and settled in and I inadvertently cooked a paella. It was the sum of the contents of my food bag, a bit like ready steady cook. I would've loved Ainsley giving it a bit of hoopla in my ear-hole. 

As is the way with these experiences, sometimes the most unassuming introductions turn out to be the most pleasurable. My neighbour was another German solo biker. He poked his head out when I passed, he introduced himself as Chris. I later found out his name was Chris Koch...his legs are about as thick as my arms and he'd planned to make it to Istanbul. Currently he'd been averaging 40km a day. Apparently the rest of the time is spent shopping. He has brought two sleeping bags - one normal and one 10 year olds use in front room sleepovers. He also joked he had a pannier full of condoms. I thought yep, I like this guys sense of humour. I asked if they had the phrase, "everything but the kitchen sink". He looked blankly.

So there we are, Germany: DONE. A new cycling bud. One potential offender in the tent next to me. Lovely stuff! 

We sat, and swooned over banjo kiwi Scott for the rest of the evening trying to harmonise dancing queen. My mother would have been proud...

Til tomorrow, Bon nuit

Ben 

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