30 days in Iran: Part two

Tehran to Esfahan

 I checked the map and I saw a pretty straight 500km to Esfahan. The weather had heated up a notch and I could finally bury my wooly hat in my bag. Time to get the old legs out again.

The main road out of Tehran was as ever hectic. These are the Alborz mountains which hang over the city. The first time I could see them through the heavy smog.

Tehran's a pretty dirty city and most people wear face masks, and I got pretty used to wearing mine.

I decided now that the motorway was a better option as at least I'd have a hard shoulder upon which to cycle. It made for pretty uninspiring riding but I covered 150km easily that day and slept 10km off down a dirt track in the woods. One of the few times I actually escaped the noise of traffic. Dinner by now was getting repetitive. With a meagre budget I had enough for pasta and baked beans. But after a long day riding anything tastes good!

This footprint was by my tent in the morning. Not sure what it is. I'd like to say a wolf. Probably a Labrador. But having already been kept up by wolves, you can but wonder... :-s

Egg in a bun. One of my more sophisticated roadside meals

From here I pedalled lethargically to Qom, Iran's holiest city. This was one of the many mosques here. I was given a free lunch by a caring cafe owner. More eggs...

I was also told to put some proper clothes on by a religious cleric. He didn't take to my vest and Lycra ensemble. Fair point. This was a learning curve.

I only stopped briefly and left late afternoon. Qom was a bit mad for my liking and I had already driven into the back of a reversing car. 

Upon leaving town, I had my first run in with the little shits on motorbikes. They were testing my patience and after one thought it would be funny to try and shake my bike while I was riding nearly knocking me off, I saw red (not natural for me) and threatened to kill him. Naturally I couldn't chase them for long and they sped off laughing. The tiredness and constant attention was getting to me a touch.

The road was again pretty flat but the scenery was getting more arid and sparse. I could definitely feel a changing climate. These miles were again not the most eventful and I was having trouble keeping my mind occupied. I was told the best way to cycle all day is just to not think about cycling. But this wasn't easy on your own and with little stimulation you can't help watching the speedometer painfully tick over. 

But that night, as it was dark I found some grass upon which to throw up my tent. It helped that it was a pomegranate orchard and my dinner was lots of pomegranates. I was kept up most the night but wolves howling in the distance and I wondered how far away they could be...

The next day was a belter! Sizzingly hot. If I'd had any eggs left I would have cooked it on the Tarmac. I was 50km from Kashan, and I made it there before lunch.

This man gave me a free box of biscuits 

Kashan is famous for the Kashan rug and exquisite tiles. It was also once the home of a Persian king so I went off to do some touristing. Before long, two men on a motorbike came alongside and offered to show me around. They could also get me in free, which was music to my ears. Them being on a motorbike I quickly learnt the art of getting towed up hill holding arm in arm - a killer on the old abs!

We arrived at the Fin Garden. A cracking little place. Quiet, serene and with towering 600 year old cedars. It was my first taste of what I'd pictured old Persia to be like - a palace for kings. 

And my guides: Mehidi and Maharezad

Kashan turned out to be much more than I'd expected. One of the oldest cities in Iran and rare in that many of the buildings remain intact.

Sports casual.

Racing through the streets. I was bloody knackered after this 

After a long day sightseeing, I was taken to a house for tea and sheesha. I went a bit too hard on the pipe and nearly passed out through asphyxiation.

That night, despite me exhaustion, Mehidi insisted on taking me to a Rosay. December is the holy month for Shi'ite Muslims and every night, men wore black and went to raucous ceremonies where they danced around in a frenzy slapping their bare chests, while a preacher chanted repetitively into a microphone. It was a surreal experience and if I'm honest I didn't enjoy it. As an atheist. I was happy to watch, but did not feel comfortable joining in. I ended up falling asleep on a pile of coats.

And after it was finished, we posed (me through forced grin) in front of the stand.

Still, they did hand out free food at the end...

And the next day it was time to go. Not before a quick interview with a local tv station. Slightly more polished this time. I had Mehidi in the background mouthing me soundbites like Alastair Campbell. I never did see the footage though.

I left and headed back along the motorway towards Esfahan. 185km according to the sign. The road started to climb again, and was pretty punishing. After around 50km I saw a military vehicle passing in the opposite direction. Nothing to worry about you say. Well, I neglected to mention I'd swiped an army hat I'd found outside a toilet earlier on (as a harmless memento of course) but I, like Frodo, felt the burden too much and my gut told me to cast it by the road side. 

This proved prophetic as sure enough minutes later I was being waved to stop by a man in full combat gear. He asked to check my passport and probed me on my reasons for being in the country. Despite having done nothing to warrant it, I still felt nervous. He took my photo, checked my camera for pictures, and said I wasn't to take another snap for the next 30km. I found out later that I had unwittingly passed the Natanz plutonium enrichment facility. I would love to say I saw something cool, but alas, the fences were too high.

Back on the road I was passed by the Zanjan cycle team. 

And as it was getting dark I stopped for the day. I could see the road was heading in a vertical fashion so thought best I tackle that in the morn.

After an hours search down a rocky dirt track I pitched my tent.

And woke to this. The joy of pitching in the dark, you have no idea what you'll see in the morning. 

That next day was brutal. Indeed the road went up. And over a mountain pass. The headwind was so strong it was like cycling through thick porridge. All you could do was put your head down and grind it out hoping it would flatten soon and the wind would abate.

But once I'd finished climbing it was flat across the plateau. Not much in the way of life up here but pretty spectacular. At altitude I could feel the air was thin and struggled to get a lungful of oxygen.

I came down the other side and rolled another 50km to Esfahan. Again I was stopped by the Feds. Police this time, but only to give me some oranges and a contact number if I had any problems.

I'd heard a lot about Esfahan. A jewel in the desert, I was told. And it certainly lived up to the hype. Once Persia's ancient capital, it bares all the architectural character of its heritage. It also does the only decent coffee in Iran thanks to its large Armenian population. You can even find a cathedral, the only one I believe in the Islamic republic.

Pedalos beached on the dried up river

It made a change to crossing by the bridge!

Vank Cathedral. A mix of Christian symbols and Islamic domes.

Coffee in an overpriced, pretentious coffeeshop. A true home from home. I really realised how addicted to coffee I am 

I stayed a few days and before I left I paid a visit to the only good bike shop in town to get my baby serviced. The noises and squeaks were driving me mad. This is run by an ex pro-cyclist named Mr Daligo who was an absolute legend. He didn't charge me a penny and also took me for a spin around town after. I definitely recommend this place if only for the pics of him in a Lycra skin suit on the walls.

Eafahan is one not to miss and this had by far the most beautiful architecture in all of Iran. I did manage to sort out flights from Dubai when I was there so things were coming togther. Nearly there :) 

So from Esfahan it was south again this time to Shiraz. Another 550km. Here we go!