Wednesday 21st August.

Hello people. Well firstly, let me say thank you for following me thus far. I did give the proclaimer at the beginning that much of this would be waffle interjected with trivial topics and in depth analysis of snacks so you were fore-warned.

I've had over 1500 page views so either my mum is pressing refresh every 10 minutes or it's getting an audience. I'm pleased to hear it as it does keep me going knowing it's not just me out here. Apparently someone in French Polynesia has viewed it, probably with the hope of some x-rated fat man cycling material. Very niche to say the least.

Alas, i also wanted to apologise for my rather downbeat post yesterday. Quite frankly I was completely fried both mentally and physically and I wasn't enjoying it. Well it's amazing what a day of rest does to you and a belly full of curry wurst and local plonk.

So woke up today. Had a cold night again. Think I need a new sleeping bag. Mine was donated by a Spanish friend called Guillermo years ago. I did wonder why he gave it to me. I think I now realise. I need an upgrade. In the meantime ive taken to wearing all my clothes at night including my well travelled thermal long johns. Also, a little tip for you, if like me you're too long for your sleeping bag, your mat and your tent, then stick to hotels. no but seriously, fill the end of your bag with clothes, etc. and this will stop your feet getting cold when they inevitably spend the night pressed against the wall of the tent. 

Also my trusty tent it starting to get really funky. Not james brown style either. It smells like a teenager's bedroom. What i need to do is air it out one morning but frankly i don't have time to watch my tent aerate. I could get an air freshener, maybe those in car christmas tree ones. i might then be the only man in the world who's tent smells like the interior of a Volkswagen Passat.

So with tent neatly packed and now with my chain as fragile as my mental state i crept along for 10km mainly downhill until I passed through a clearing and saw perhaps the most breathtaking view of my trip so far. I'd arrived in Holstenplatz on the banks of the river Mosel. On one side Reisling vineyards grew on the steep rocky slopes amongst medieval churches. On the other, alpine firs rose from the water's edge to the summit of the cliff. It was truly like Lord of the Rings when they pass along the river in The Fellowship with the great stone statues pointing the way. Unfortunately my phone was out of battery so couldn't take pics :(

My mission for today is simple: repair my chain, fix my bike and rest. The nearest shop was in Koblenz. I was not gonna make it on my bike so train it was. Only 29km but still. My first bit of public transport...felt like I was cheating but I think I've deserved a rest. While I waited I drank ein kaffee and ate some cakes. Nussacker cakes are my new flapjack...

With new chain purchased and fitted (by myself I hasten to add), I thought it about time I did some sightseeing. Had a mooch and treated myself to a curry wurst, chips and a local Reisling of course. Sat and caught up on some social admin and fired off some emails. After Facebook was finished I left and decided to take my first trip down the Rhein.

I knew that for the next 300km at least it would be flat and smooth so I was happy again. I set off with gusto. After 10km I was drawn off the track up a path following the recognisable 'historical monument' signs. I was in a small town called Rhens and after visiting the local tourist office I knew everything about this town. The German chap, Herr Mech (comb-over, sandles, smelt of mildew) who worked there was so proud to tell me this was the original spot where all the German Kings were 'elected' and then crowned. Home of the Konigstulle. I cycled up the steep slope en route stopping to ask directions with an octogenarian gent. Neither spoke each others language but I managed to explain using my best gcse German about my trip. He nodded unimpressed and carried on sweeping his drive.

At the Konigstulle there was a gathering of locals, all 60 and over. I was collared by one woman and explained this was a special day. Apparently it was the annual election of the new Chancellor of the Konigstulle so folk dressed up in medieval costumes and decided things. She explained AT LENGTH and kindly translated all 6 sides of her husbands speech for me... I smiled and nodded politely as she struggled for 15 minutes..I was I introduced to the whole community (I pretended I came all this way to see it...) and offered a glass of wine. I had 4. A beaded gent kept bringing me more so I felt obliged. It was quite nice to see all this and I felt strangely privileged. They were obviously very proud of their heritage. I made my excuses and left pleased I'd had such a strange insight into another by-gone tradition.

I carried on to Boppard, cooked my dinner on a bench. Got lots of looks as I don't think it's standard behaviour. Sat in a pub and watched a Schalke football match with locals and the bar woman was from Yorkshire of all places! Home from home at last...

So in pitch darkness, I pitched my tent again, and again by 2 freight train lines, and a main road but I didn't care.